Malta and Our Next Big Adventure

Although we are fortunate enough to travel around often simply because of the nature of Gus’s job, and because of where we have been living, we haven’t recently taken a vacation just for us. The winters in Italy are nothing to complain about in comparison to the winters in England, yet we were both still itching for something a little warmer after months of colder temps. Knowing how quickly things in our life change, and the upcoming months being no exception, we booked a ten day trip to Malta! 

 

So we have officially been living in Italy for 9 months, and what a wonderful change it has been. We never seem to be able to sit still and are already gearing up for another big change. Although we travel a lot, it’s usually business related, so this trip was a great way to unwind and forget about work. Each time we travel we have an extra set of documents to carry. For me it is a tourist passport, a government passport with my visa that allows me to stay in Italy, and then a soggiorno which allows me to enter and exit Italy. With each life change I seem to acquire more documents to carry around, and I know whats next is no exception. But more on that later, back to Malta! 

So where is Malta you ask? Well if you haven’t heard of one of the smallest countries in the world, an island that could fit in London five times, you are not alone! Just 60 miles south of Sicily in the Mediterranean, this beautiful country is truly a melting pot of cultures. Most recently governed by the British, there is a strong presence to include everything from the language to the electrical outlets, that’s right no plugging in a hairdryer in the bathroom. Being so close to Italy, many locals speak Italian, English, and their native Maltese, and as a bonus they know how to do pasta right. The prominent religion is Catholicism, and since we traveled there around Easter, we noticed a heavy influence across the island. 

We decided to spend our first 3 nights in an AirBnB in Cospicua and spent our days exploring the cities of Valletta and Mdina. Being a small, yet heavily populated island the streets are narrow and everything is tall. Our friend Allison had recently been to Malta and warned us about the dense population, which also makes public transportation a bit interesting, and recommended eCabs basically the Uber for Malta. We decided to chance it anyway as we were right next to a bus stop. While waiting an hour for the bus that should have arrived in about twenty minutes, we happened upon a military parade. There was a large band, a dedication, and everyone in beautiful uniforms. Definitely made it worth while waiting for a bus that just never showed up. So lesson one, listen to Allison. We called eCabs and were on our way to lunch at Palazzo Preca in Valletta ten minutes later. 

After a fantastic lunch at Palazzo Preca, that we were way under dressed for, we walked around the narrow streets of Valletta. Being a week out from Easter, we stood and watched a rehearsal for the Easter service outside one of the main churches. Again the heavy Catholic influence of the island was apparent as we watched three men high up on crosses reenacting the crucifixion of Jesus. 

We finished the day walking along the water, stopping for the view from Upper Barrikka Gardens where we could see Saint Elmo’s lighthouse and a view of the Grand Harbour. On a side note, that evening we decided to watch the new Murder on the Orient Express, and recognised that the first few scenes of the movie were filmed in Valletta with views of the lighthouse and Grand Harbour! 

Yet again we were happy to stay in a small apartment. We always enjoy getting a feel of the area, shopping at the local grocery store, and saving a little money eating a meal or two at home. The apartment and neighborhood we stayed in this time was really beautiful, and definitely safe. I mean, who needs police with this kind of security system?

Just when you think your bathroom is small, check our this use of space. Is it a bathroom? A shower? Or both? Thankfully not the main one for either in the apartment. I guess this is why they adopted the British rule of no outlets in the bathroom! 

Unlike the previous day, we successfully managed to take the bus south to the Tarxien Temples,(the x is pronounced like a “sh”) a Megalithic temple dating back to 3150 BC and thought to be one of the oldest in the world. The UNESCO World Heritage Site was discovered in 1914 when local farmers were ploughing the field covering the temples and continually struck large blocks of stone. Today the site is preserved by a large cover and walkway, and home to many local friendly cats. 

From the temples we attempted yet another bus trip to the fortress town of Mdina, this time unsuccessful. The bus passed us, and despite five of us waving it down, it never stopped. Ecabs to the rescue! Once in the pedestrian only fortress town, we had an excellent lunch at Bacchus, followed by a walk around the old city. Mdina is known for it’s blown glass, some of the most beautiful, yet reasonably priced we’ve come across! The lack of cars, and according to the posted sign, motor cycles, segways, and drones, makes the city easy and stress free to navigate, making for a really enjoyable afternoon! 

For the second portion of our trip we spent our time on the even smaller island of Gozo, specifically in the southern portion of Xlendi. We had another AirBnB apartment, this time overlooking the beautiful water of Xlendi Bay. Unlike the main island of Malta, the buses were more reliable making the trip to Victoria (Ir-Rabat) and the Blue Hole an easy ride. Near the main bus stop in Victoria is a great little coffee shop, Cup Cake, perfect for a cappuccino and small bite to eat. The Banana Toffee muffins alone are worth the trip across the street! From there we took our next bus to the Blue Hole, where the famed Azure Window stood until March of last year. Although we didn’t have a chance, the water where the window fell is quickly becoming a popular site for divers to explore. Still worth the trip, the Blue Hole is surrounded by volcanic rock and beautiful ocean views. 

Once back in Victoria we had to go by a particular bus stop, the Viani bus stop! Not very often do we see things with our surname, so although less than historical it was a must see. Victoria is another beautiful fortress town with beautiful views and excellent local food. We ate lunch at Ta’ Rikardu, specialising in wild rabbit. Rabbit is a traditional dish in Gozo, mainly because it was banned by the British and it was a way for the locals to rebel against their rule. 

The bulk of our time in Gozo was laid back and relaxing. With our apartment being in such an ideal location with a huge balcony overlooking the bay, there wasn’t much need to venture far. We found a few restaurants in the main part of the cove, our favorite being the understated Il-Kcina Ghawdxija. Don’t ask me how to pronounce it, just go eat there if you are ever in Gozo. Seated right along the water with picturesque views, it is only made better by fried local goat cheese with honey, traditional cauliflower fritters, and a myriad of other equally unique and delicious dishes.  On several days, after some time exploring or just simply enjoying the view, we would eat our main lunch at Il-Kcina, followed by specialty dessert at The Boat House a seashell’s throw away. 

For our final day in Gozo the weather really cleared up and the temperature was perfect for a little hike. From Xlendi bay there is a path called the heritage trail, a 6km loop that goes through a few small towns and along the cliffside coast. During summer months I would highly advise starting early, as even end of March felt warm. As our Italian cab driver Alessandro later said, è come un forno....it is an oven. Although you pass through towns, don’t expect to find cafe’s or places to use the bathroom. A bit of an adjustment from Italy where you can’t go far without a place for a good espresso! The path is mostly exposed, so pack the sunscreen and enjoy the beautiful view. Our hiking loop brought us right to our favorite restaraunt in Xlendi, where we ate lunch for a third day, followed by a relaxing last afternoon along the water. 

To finish out our nine day stay in Malta, we headed back to the main island to an apartment right by the airport. This place was right above a convenience store called “Step In” and our AirBnB was run by the same owners. Since this place was much more residential, we took an eCab to have lunch near the Blue Grotto, with a view of the small island of Filfla. Today this island is only inhabited by wildlife, and is a safe haven for many birds and lizards. The land waters surrounding are protected and perfect for the marine life as well. In the 1800’s the Maltese built a lighthouse and small church and was used by those escaping an outbreak of cholera. Since then the island has suffered damage from earthquakes and missiles mistaking it for an enemy ship, both causing the destruction of the man made buildings that once stood. 

With so much time to explore, relax, and reconnect, we talked a lot about how much our life has changed over the last nine and a half years. We always reference Bob Marley’s “Three Little Birds” and the line “every little things gonna be alright” with every new adventure and life change. Yes, we sing this a lot. One of the greatest joys has been traveling, moving, and adventuring together, growing with each difficulty and success. Although it seems like we have experienced a lot, we know our next adventure will be our biggest yet, and are so excited for this next major chapter in our life. This summer our third little bird will be joining our family as we welcome a baby girl, due in August! We couldn’t be more excited and can’t wait for her arrival, and of course to give her the first stamp in her brand new passport!